Saturday 17 November 2007

Blackpool Northern lights my second day

Didn't play in the comp only went down to play cash.
The place was pretty live with action. Cash tables all over the place and organisation was rubbish as usual.
Sat down with £50 in front of me and pretty much just assessed the table for the first 30mins or so. Action on the table was pretty hot and the guy 2 seats to my left was on a blufing mission.
I built my stack from £50 to about £180 when i decided it was time to have a go back at the Jamie Gold wannabe.
Blinds where 2 and 2 Mr bluffer bluffer was on the button after 3 limper's in the pot I flat call with ace jack another 2 callers and MBB ( mr bluffer bluffer) insta raises o £10.
I had already worked out that a £10 raise means jack shit and a £20 raise means a decent hand.
He gets 2 callers then me to act so i re raise another £40 to go, his turn to act and he pushes all in sounds crazy but i put my self ahead or him on a shitty pair. You can probably say this is a silly move but I called knowing 50/50 at worse and if i don't make a stand against him then he is going to trample the table and me for the rest of the night. I call it turns out he has 33 and i flop an ace and the rest was history. MBB stands there looking at me in disgust and said it was a brave call. I explained to him that he shouldn't underestimate me.
Table after that was mine outplayed people left right and centre got the usual hands that i had to pay a few people off but that happens now and again.
Half way through the night a pissed up guy came to the table with a lot of money in front of him.
Problem with him was he wasn't sure what a good hand was.
A lot of evidence showed that he was happy to put a few hundred in the middle with top pair shit kicker so but also over played his big hands, so it was very hard to some his play up.
Got involved with him in a monster when I turned trip kings queen kicker the only hand can beat me is a full house but i put him on that or ak and he didn't raise pre flop. I pay him off and he turns over ak. I,m out kicked what i couldn't get my head around was why he didn't raise pre when he was on the button when he had ak 3 times previous and raised ever single time.
I finished the session on a decent plus figure so I'm happy enough........

Monday 12 November 2007

Event 1 Northern Lights Blackpool

Arrived at the G around 1pm planning on playing the free roll, to find 161 runners already registered for the £150 freeze out so decided to enter it up front.

The free roll was designed as a crap shoot as you can imagine went all in the first orbit with aj walked into kk on my left. Not to worried as the cash action was pretty live.

Sat down on the cash table and played up to 6pm sat with £50 lost that when I had doubled my stack to around the £100 mark limped into a pot for 2 with aq hearts got a mid position raiser to £8 and 3 other callers and me flop comes down 467 2 hearts i check out one of the late callers bets out for £20 and gets another caller i think they are both drawing and move in for another £35 i think it was and they both called. Raiser missed his flush and so did i the other caller had called with a gut shot and hit a 3 on the river to claim he pot.

Pulled up another fifty and manged to double that before leaving the table happy enough for something to eat before the comp started.

The casino was organised ciaos. About 30 mins before the comp started we found that there was about 50-60 people on the reserve list and that everyone that had registered at any other G casino hadn't been put on the system and so there was no space for them in the competition. The whole place was upside down alot of unhappy faces shouting and giving management a hard time. Rightly so......

We finally got under way blinds started at 25/50 first 2 levels at 45 min clock then the bad news was that it dropped to 20 mins blinds. So yes the crap shoot was on its way.

In the first 2 levels i had pocket aces once, pocket kings twice, pocket jacks once, ak twice that hit the flop, and aq suited in the small blind that hit a queen high flop, and by the time the first 2 levels had finished i still had only my 7k starting stack.......

Blinds started to fly up as u can imagine after that.
Got involved a few times but i was just running on the spot. First key was when i raised up on the button and the big blind called. Flop came 955 he checks i bet he flat calls straight away i think he has a hand its the first he has been involved so he must of hit the 9. The turn comes a jack and i think this puts me in front although not being sure he checks I check to see what his bet is like on the river he bets fifteen hundred and i pay to see him turn over A5.
Then I get kk in the cut off and it folds around to me, i try to make it look like I'm on one after loosing the hand before and the guy in first position tells the table I'm on tilt i don mind at all but the blinds fold.
Very next hand I get 99, folds to me I raise again and the fellow that was doing the tilt talk in the hand before decides to set me all in. This was the last hand before the break and if i call I'm not coming back. I raised it up for 1600 and this guy has moved in for over 7k. The whole card room has emptied apart from the ring of spectators around the table watching to see what is going on. Normally its a fold but with the blinds going up, and the clock dropped to 20mins I fealty it was time to go ahead and put them in. I think he could off done it with any 2 cards but final decision is the guy has something like 77-AQ. All the chips fly in and he turns over AJ.
My 9's hold up.
I'm up to 15k total.
After break my opportunities just didn't arrive and the blinds started to eat into me
Get moved table and have to settle down and find out whats going on.
First hand i get is pocket 10's utg raises up and I think about pushing but decide to look at a flop.
Flop comes AJ9 of spades and raiser pushes all in. I think forever because i held the 10 of spades and my opponent really doesn't look like he wants a call. I eventually fold and he shows trip 9's.
After that i have to start playing a short stack game and after only 3 levels and got moved table again.
Started to put my chips in with less than premium hands and manged to stay alive until 31st spot.
I ended up getting all in with the blinds about to come through me with KQ diamonds and called by the bb with 99. No help for me and i was out of there.

Wednesday 7 November 2007

Wankers Getting Rewarded





Playing the 6.5k tonight and come across this guy hitting flops like a man possessed

Tuesday 6 November 2007

Montana Banana

Playing in the 6.5k gtd on blue square when tthe montana banana comes good......

Monday 5 November 2007

GUKPT £30 Sat

Played in the £30 double chance freeze out tonight in Blackpool.
Started off very slow for about the first 20 minutes didn't get involved at all, all the players on the table at first seemed aggressive as a lot of betting and raising was going on early doors. Once the mist had settled I realised that there was no aggression it was just people getting decent hands.
Started to get involved on the third orbit with a whole load of shit. Had a pretty good rad for the table and didn't have o get to a show at all early on.
Key hand for me was when i had built my stack to 13k only having to show my hole cards once when me and the chip leader on the table mixed it up. He was the type of player that came into the pot raising with a made hand and limped with any over cards apart from ak.
He comes into the pot for a minimum raise 2nd to act and I look down at aq of spades.
He makes 1200 total to go i raise to 3600t he calls and we go to a flop. I now know a this stage he thinks he is behind. Flop comes down with three rags. He checks i bet out for 4k, he calls. I,m now very sure I,m ahead. Turn comes he bets out 2k All the books I have ever read says that i fold Gut instinct is to push all in, I decide to look stronger by raising another 5k on top. He sits for an eternity then folds.
Got a bit aggressive after that winning and loosing a few hands but making sure i was staying in control of the table.
Get my stack to around 30k total when the guy the history was with limps utg for 1200. I look down at ak and make in 4800 total to go it folds around to him and he pushes all in. No one in the room is telling me I'm behind here and I insta call. He turns over KQ off. I'm absolutely made up until the Q arrive on the flop and the other Q arrives on the turn.
This was the key turning point for me in the game.
After losing that pot I dropped down to 18k with the blinds just going up to 800/1600. This put me in a world of trouble. I was now on just over 11 big blinds and needed a hand to double up.
The tables broke down and a couple of new players were moved on with alot of chips.
I had to sit tight for a long time and got blinded away abit. Eventually got pocket Queens payed off when the KQ guy moved all in utg with 99 that didn't improve.
This took me up to just over average chips.
After needing the deck changed and dealer changing the blinds where at 1500/3000 in no time at all it seemed.
Got pocket queens again on big blind but didn't get paid when only the button called with the small blind and they folded to my shove.
Reached the final table short stacked with chip leader on the big blind when I was in the cut off.
ever had more then 5 big blinds the whole time and i think I had my tournament on the line probably 8 times in total in I'd say 20 hands.
blinds where at 4k/8k when i had 51k total with them going up in 2 minutes to 5k/10k. A2 suited in diamonds looked fine to have a go with after making the decision that I couldn't have the blinds go through me again. Big blind woke up with AJ and called on the turn I had 10 outs for a split pot, 3 for winning pair and 9 diamonds for a flush and missed every single one.
Out in fifth place with the game only paying 2 seats and third place cash prize of £480.
The fishes 1 skipper 0 next time guys next time.........

Sunday 4 November 2007

Pot Odds and Counting Outs



Games are supposed to be fun. Addition, multiplication, and wrestling with ratios and percentages probably doesn't sound like a lot of fun. I'm sure we'd all agree, however, that winning money is a lot of fun. I won't make any bold claims about math being exciting and easy, for most, it is not. I won't say that pot odds calculation and "race odds" assessment can be mastered in minutes. They probably cannot.

What I will say is that most of the practical and relevant mathematics that apply to poker can be understood by almost anyone who is willing to invest a little bit of time and effort.
Over the years, I've heard all the reasons why you don't need to learn math to win at poker. I've heard a lot of people defensively claim a lot of things to try to keep math from tarnishing the face of there precious and beloved game. These players convince themselves and try to convince others that poker is all about "the luck of the draw", or bluffing, or reading players. Let's learn the math and take their money.
When dealing with the mathematics of poker it is helpful to look at your poker career as a business. The easiest example to use is a casino. How does a casino run games of chance and make a profit? It's simple really; they offer patrons the opportunity to play games of chance that are statistically favorable for the house. Most players are happy to sit down at a gaming table and make bets that are mathematically erroneous mainly for entertainment. That entertainment has a cost attached to it. The cost is simply the statistical advantage or "edge" that the house has over them. Most poker players resemble casino patrons (in fact many are) in that they are playing mainly for entertainment. They are gambling. A player, who understands poker strategy and the mathematics behind it, can essentially take the place of the casino. Winning players make a profit from poker the same way the house does at the casino, by offering players opportunities to make and call bets that are statistically erroneous.
Poker is a game about decision making. Most of the mathematically defined decisions will be based on weighing your hand odds (your odds of having or making the best hand) against your pot odds (the amount of money in the pot compared to the amount of money it costs to contest it.). The decisions you make at the table will be correct or incorrect mathematically based on the correlation between your pot odds and hand odds. Each time you make a mistake you are giving your opponent(s) a statistical edge and each time your opponent(s) make a mistake you have gained a statistical edge. The edges that you take and the edges that you give away will determine your success in the game in the long term.
Calculating Estimated Value
By calculating the appropriate figures you should be able to get a pretty good idea of the EV (estimated value) of every play you make. EV is the amount of money a particular play earns or loses on average. To explain EV, I'll use a non-poker example; suppose you roll a standard die. If you were offered $10 every time you rolled a six and it only cost you $1 to play, you would be getting 10 to 1 on your money and the odds of you hitting a six on a standard die are 5 to 1 against. There are five numbers that will cost you money and one number that will make you money. One time in six, however, you will win $10 and 5 times in six you will lose $1. To find the EV of the play just subtract the money you lose from the money you win and divide by the number of trials. You win $10 and lose $5 ($10-$5=$5) and it takes you 6 trials ($5/6= $.86). That means our die rolling example has a positive EV of 86 cents. We will make, on average, 86 cents per trial. That's the way a casino looks at table games, that's the way you should look at poker.
Many of the difficult math problems that develop in poker occur when one player has a made hand and the other has a draw to a better hand. That's when a working knowledge of pot odds and counting outs will be most important, to profit when drawing and to make sure your opponents don't. I'll be using a hand from (NLH) No Limit Hold 'em as an example and referring back to it throughout the article. Let's suppose you start with AKc and you raise before the flop. Only the player in the big blind calls your raise. The flop comes out Qc 2d 8c, you've flopped a draw to the nut club flush. You have one opponent in the hand with you who you suspect has flopped a pair or better. If he bets out, should you raise, call, or fold? Most players will typically just check and call with a flush draw without ever considering whether or not it is actually a profitable decision. For simplicities sake we'll just assume that raising is not one of the choices, how do you determine whether to fold or call with a draw? The only way to decide whether to call is by comparing your hand odds to your pot odds. Supposing the pot contains $100 and your opponent bets $10, should you call with the flush draw? The short answer is yes, you're in "overlay". You're getting 11 to 1 pot odds, on a 4 to 1 draw. That's a very promising spread. You'll play.
Calculating Pot Odds
In the previous example, I said that the pot odds were 11 to 1 and the hand odds were 4 to 1. Let me explain those figures. The pot contained $100 before our opponent bet, his bet of $10 brings the pot size up to $110. It costs you $10 if you want to play. 110 to 10 is the same as 11 to 1. When you are getting such generous pot odds you will only need to be able to win the hand one time in twelve to break even. Anything beyond one chance in twelve is overlay, the positive EV you're looking for. So, if you can expect to win the hand better than one time in twelve you can afford to make the call. Now, I've estimated your odds of calling the bet then improving to the best hand at 4 to 1 against. Assuming you will improve to the best hand one time in five (4 to 1) when the pot is laying you $110 to $10 nets you an EV of +$12.00. That means you will win $12 on average every time you make the call. We arrive at that figure, again, by adding the money we lose together and subtracting it from the money we win then dividing by the number of attempts it takes us. We'll lose $10 on four attempts and win $110 on one attempt. ($110-$40= $70) We profit $70 dollars over five trials on average when we call this bet. $70/5 = $12 per trial.
Counting Outs
If you count your outs (the number of unseen cards that will give you the best hand) and multiply them by two you will come up with your approximate chance in percentage of hitting one of your outs on the next card. It's actually a bit more accurate to multiply your outs by two and then add one. When chasing a flush draw you have 9 unseen clubs left in the deck that will give you the best hand. 9x2=18+1=19. You have about a 19% chance of hitting a club on the next card. 19% is about 4 to 1 odds. 20% is 4 to 1 exactly. If 20% of the deck will make you a flush, the other 80% won't. 80 to 20 is the same as 4 to 1. In our example, I said that I was estimating conservatively, and that's because I'm only counting the cards that are sure to give you the best hand. You also have the aces and kings in the deck that would give you top pair top kicker. There are actually three more kings and three more aces that may be outs. Depending on how tight or aggressive your opponent is, you might count those as ½ an out a piece. Your opponent could have a hand that is beating top pair, counterfeiting your kings and aces as outs. That's called discounting outs, I'll address it in more detail later in this series.
When drawing, it's important to remember to compare your chances of hitting your hand on the next card alone to your current pot odds when deciding if you should draw. That's because, if you call and miss your hand you will likely be facing another bet on the next card. I'm surprised how often a player will call a large bet on a draw when they have two cards left, then fold to the same bet if they miss the first card. The, somewhat fuzzy, logic behind this is in thinking that they have a good chance to improve with two cards left and then folding when they miss the first one. The truth is, of course, if you were going to fold your hand if you missed the turn then you didn't actually have two cards to begin with. More often than not the pot is actually offering better odds after the turn then after the flop. My point is, simply, that you must take poker one decision at a time. The only time you should weigh your odds of hitting an out with two cards coming against the pot odds is when one of you will be all-in after the flop. When that's the case you can go ahead and assess your chances of hitting your hand with two cards to come and compare them to the price the pot is laying you. And the easy, and approximate, formula is (again) your outs X2 + 1 per card.
Let's go thru another example; let's suppose you're in a $5-$10 limit hold 'em game. The blinds are $2-$5; you call in first position with 6c6d. Your call initiates a string of calls, then the dealer button raises. Everyone calls the raise so the pot contains $60 and is being contested by 6 players. The flop comes Ad 5h Tc, no help to you. With two over-cards to your pair you have to assume you're beaten. Everyone checks to the dealer who bets out $5. Action folds to you, what should you do? Well let's do some math. The pot is offering $65 to $5, which is a huge price, 13 to 1. You can figure to have two outs in the deck which only gives you about a 5% chance of hitting. You actually need about 19 to 1 to call here. 5% converts to 1 chance in 20. 1 chance in 20 converted over to odds becomes 19 to 1 against. Even if you count the implied odds (the bets you'll collect after you do make your hand), I'd say this is a fold. Some players might call the bet thinking that they can make a lot of money with the set if they do hit it. While the math might indicate that it is at least close to a call, you also have to consider that there are more players yet to act and any of them could put in a re-raise making it more expensive than you anticipated to continue to chase your set. All things considered, this is a fold.
In my next article we'll take a closer look at draws. We'll also examine the other side of the coin, protecting your hand against draws. We'll talk a bit more about implied odds and we'll try to establish some rules of thumb for the bet sizes you should be willing to call on certain draws, and the bets sizes you should select to protect your hand against draws. In closing I'd just like to remind you to be patient with all of this information. The more you study it and apply it, the more useful it becomes. I used to practice counting my opponents outs even when I was not in the hand. The more you use the math the easier it becomes and the more money you'll make in the long run. I'm going to end with a list of draws, the number of outs, and the approximate percentages of hitting those draws per card. Good "luck"!
Flush draw = 9 outs = 19%
Open ended straight draw = 8 outs = 17%
Inside straight draw = 4 outs = 9%
Pair that needs to hit set = 2 outs = 5%

Saturday 3 November 2007

Playing Strategy

Tournament Strategy

Many different factors need to covered when it comes to the perfect strategy approach for playing any poker tournament so i have started to put together some of the more obvious things that need to be covered.
Many people fail to grab the concept of how specific hands should be played in tournaments under different situations and conditions. So below I have listened some good articles on very important hands and some not so important.

Playing hands such as

Of course whether of not you have it down to a fine art of playing all your hands correctly, you must also take into consideration what your opponent is up to. This part of the game is probably more important than playing every premium hand to the book. This is why all the information made available to whilst not in the hand should be collected and stored in the memory bank for the times you need to use it, or in our case every time we enter a pot.That's why tells become ultra important. If by chance you are lucky enough to come across a tell on any of your opponents its a must you take total advantage of it and use it to its full .Below are a couple of links to how the pro's look at the tells around them at the felt.

This is a section developed for my own self analysis and instructional purposes. Any documents or articles I come across in my quest to better my game I will add to the Tournament strategy section or Cash game section and so on.

I hope these articles are as beneficial to you as they are to me..... Good Luck Skipper

Friday 2 November 2007

How to spot a Poker Tell by Dutch Boyd


I've gotten a lot of emails about poker tells... what are some common ones, how to spot them, etc. Here are some ideas to get you started.
There are some very common poker tells that most new players will exhibit (e.g. shaking hand when they bet means a monster, looking down at their chips immediately after a flop means they connected, etc.). Most of these can be found in a book by Mike Caro called Book of Tells. He basically breaks down tells into two categories : acting tells, where a player acts weak when they are strong (e.g. a sigh when they make a big hand, a "poker-clack" when they bet, a shrug) or strong when they are weak (e.g. staring you down when they're bluffing), and non-acting tells (e.g. the shaking hand, the looking down at chips). The acting ones are tells where people act in a certain way to get you to act the way they want. New players fall victim to these types of tells all the time. The non-acting ones are tells that players are not conscious of.
Basically, Mike Caro's book is a good start, but it's definitely not the end. With tells, what you have to do is get a line on each player. Each player will exhibit different tells. Look for a difference in the way they play two hands... ANY difference. If you spot a difference that is consistent, it's a tell. Player A might sniff a little when he has a big hand, and not sniff when he doesn't. Player B might sniff when he's bluffing, and not sniff when he's strong. Player C might have a vein on his neck that goes CRAZY when he's bluffing. Player D might have a vein that goes crazy when he's NOT bluffing. It's going to be different for each player, but once you spot a difference in the way they play, you've got them. Then you just look to see him turn over a hand. You correlate the strength of what they show to the behavior variance and you've got yourself a tell.
Examples : (1) Sammy is a player at your table. You notice that in some of the hands he's in, he makes his bet with the biggest denomination chips possible. With others, you notice that it's with the smallest demoniation chips. He bets $10k one hand and throws two $5k chips in. He bets $10k another hand throws in 10 $1k chips. He does this a lot, varying the chips he bets. You see him bet 10 $1k chips and fold to a reraise... then you finally see him turn over a hand... he flopped Aces full and bet the $5k chips the whole way. Now you know it correlates to strength... it figures that when he bets smaller denominations, it correlates to weakness. He's yours. (2) Joe is peaking at his hole cards before it's his turn to act. You're clocking him... every time he peeks down, you start counting. Most of the times, he peeks down for six or so seconds, then starts looking at the action. One time, though, he peeks down for 2 seconds, looks straight at the dealer, raises when it's his turn, and turns over aces. He's yours.
Those are just some examples of what to look for. The key is you spot a difference, you correlate it to strength or weakness, then you exploit it. If you spot a tell that means strength, you lay down your Jacks preflop. If you spot a tell that means weakness, you raise with your 82o. Sounds simple, right? It's not... but hopefully this will get you started.

Betting Patterns by Joe Benik

Okay, so you’re a serious poker player. You have your chip tricks down, you’ve been taping the Travel Channel, and you’re in a big home game against some friends who aren’t even in your league when it comes to poker. You are looking around the room for their tells.
You’re watching for them to glance at their chips, to reach for their cards early, to scratch their nose, to eat an Oreo cookie. But you don’t see anything. Nobody is scratching anything, and there is nary an Oreo in sight. Are these amateurs tell-proof, or are you just not looking hard enough?
Tells are not always out there, even from amateurs. Usually, it takes hours, or even several sessions, to spot a tell on somebody, so be patient. In the meantime, you can make use of the Single Greatest Tell Known to Man.
This tell is highly reliable, difficult to fake, and rarely even noticed by the one showing it, unless they are made aware of it by someone else. It can be quite profitable, and doesn’t take long to figure out, if you know to look for it.
What is it? Well, if you will send $99.95 to Greatest Tell; PO Box 234. . . .
Just kidding. Here it is. The Greatest Tell Known to Man, the most common way that players give away the strength of their hands is (drumroll please): Bet Size.
Think about it. Poker players, especially amateurs, will almost always bet certain amounts in certain situations. Why? Because they think that the amount that they bet is the right amount for that situation. If they have top pair on the flop, and the bet is checked to them, then the right bet is X. If they have the nut flush draw on the turn, then the right bet is Y. If they are under the gun with aces, then they should bet Z.
If these are the correct amounts to bet, then that’s what they will be betting. After all, whoever makes the correct play the most times wins, right? Well, not exactly. Varying your play is important too, especially in big bet poker. But most amateurs are more concerned with making the right play than changing things up, and they are hard-pressed to make what they think is an inferior play just to remain unpredictable.
So, while you’re watching out for facial ticks and shaking hands, keep track of the size of the bets your opponents make. Compare their bets to the size of the pots that they’re betting into. And try to understand why they bet the way they do. When you see someone’s cards, you should review every bet that he made, and understand what was going through his head in every single round. Odds are that you will find yourself in the same situation with the same player, and this knowledge can be a great help to you.
It is even more important that you don’t give off these tells yourself. Not everyone will notice them, but if you find yourself up against better players, they can put you on a hand as easily as if they can see your cards. To prevent this, you may think that varying your play is the best way to go. That does help, but there is an even better strategy.
Ironically, changing one’s play doesn’t necessarily make you much less predictable. It only adds some complexity to the problem of figuring out what you are playing. Let’s take an example. You flop trips with a low pair, and are first to bet. The ordinary amateur player would check raise here. So in an effort to vary your play, you might want to sometimes check and sometimes make a big bet of double the size of the pot. This would make it harder to put you on trips. Right? But what if in any other situation, you made a stab bet of half the pot? Whether you flop top pair, middle pair or nothing, you make a half-pot stab at it. Now, all of a sudden, you are either checking or putting in a big bet of double the pot. Well, I still know that you have trips, don’t I?
For this reason, you are more unpredictable if you vary your betting patterns less instead of more. If you bet half the pot in every other case, you’re completely concealed if you bet half the pot with trips. People who have been watching you will have no idea that you have anything, much less trips. And you will get more action than you can handle.
A better example of this is your preflop betting. If you are playing against newer players, you are probably seeing a lot of limping. Are people limping with big pairs or Ace-King? No, they are raising with those hands. They are limping with small pairs or K-J or suited connectors, hoping to see a cheap flop that will pay off for them. Well, when they do raise, they are giving their hands away, especially if they raise for different amounts for different hands. Many players have unofficial rules for the hands that they play in no limit:
Pre-Flop Hand
Bet Size
Low pairs, suited connectors, and other medium hands
Limp
Medium pairs or AK
3 x BB
Big pairs (jacks, queens or kings)
5 x BB
Aces
2 x BB
If you are one of these players, you are giving your hand away, even before the flop. You are better off using the following rule:
Pre-Flop Hand
Bet Size
Low pairs, suited connectors, and other medium hands
3 x BB
Medium pairs or AK
3 x BB
Big pairs (jacks, queens or kings)
3 x BB
Aces
3 x BB
Rags (every once in awhile)
3 x BB
If you do this, you will be giving nothing away, and your opponents -- even the observant ones -- will not know what hand to put you on.
Observing your opponents’ bet sizes is a useful habit to get into, and you will be amazed at how often players repeat their own patterns. Even more useful is to prevent your opponents from doing the same, by varying your play or by betting the same way in different situations. The more your opponents are confused, the more their chips will find their way into your stack.

Truth about poker tells by Daniel Negreanu


I’m going to let you in on a little secret here. If you believe that watching for a twitchy eye or a flared nostril is what poker is all about — you’re quite wrong. Many poker players (mainly those who are new to the game) are preoccupied with the notion that bluffing and the ability to discover tells are what it’s all about.
I often hear someone say something like, “Oh, I could never be a good poker player. I have a terrible poker face.” Or, “I wouldn’t be very good at poker. I just can’t tell a lie, so I wouldn’t be able to bluff with a straight face.”
Well, if you believe that, this column should be a pleasant awakening. While it is important to avoid giving away too much information with your body language, it’s nowhere near as important as learning the fundamentals of the game. In fact, I would bet that a world-class player could beat a low-limit game even if he told his opponents what he had on the turn every single time! Of course, that would work only if his opponents didn’t always believe him, but I think you get the idea.
So, what is it, then? What is it that separates average and good players from the great ones? Well, obviously, tell recognition would be one factor, but it’s simply not the most significant. The answer is: hand-reading ability; the ability to process information that you’ve gathered from your opponent in the current hand and in past hands, and to use that information to narrow down your opponent’s holdings. Picking up on your opponents’ betting patterns and understanding what they are and aren’t capable of doing, makes this much easier. So, when you hear people talk about “reading people,” what it really comes down to is reading into your opponent’s mind what he is thinking at the moment, and trying to figure out how he would play various situations. It’s not about noticing that when Al has a flush draw, he eats an Oreo cookie without opening it up first, but when he has top pair, he licks out all the cream first. That would be one heck of a tell, but obvious tells like that are pretty much reserved for the movies. However, some pros would like you to believe that their biggest strength is their ability to “see through your soul”; that is, knowing what your holecards are just by looking at you. This might be true in cases in which players have exaggerated tells, but for the most part, a great player makes his read based on the actual betting that took place, not the facial tics.
Now, I shouldn’t be telling you this, but I will anyway. It’s simply a scare tactic used by many pros to make you feel uncomfortable. Think about it: When you make a bet (whether it’s a bluff or not) and your opponent throws his hand in immediately, or even calls immediately, is it intimidating? No, not really. Well, what if he takes extra time? He stares you down. He cuts his chips out to make it look like he wants to raise, and so on. Now, that might make you sweat a little bit, especially if you are indeed bluffing! If it doesn’t make you sweat, it at least might make you uncomfortable having a guy stare at you for so long. It’s all a ploy, as simple as that.
Most often, a player knows exactly what he’s going to do within five seconds. You’ll see it on the World Poker Tour telecasts quite often, thanks to the hidden cameras. There was a hand at the World Poker Open tournament in which Dave “Devilfish” Ulliot made a play with the 5 2. The player he had raised moved all in, and David went into the tank (meaning he took a substantial amount of time pondering whether or not to call the bet)! Why did he do this? After all, he is an experienced pro, and knew full well that he wasn’t going to call the all-in raise, so why waste all that time?
Well, there are a couple of possible answers to that question. He may have just wanted to save face in order to conceal the fact that he was raising with a trash hand, or, more likely, he was trying to make his opponent sweat a little bit. He wanted to make him nervous, and put him through three minutes of torment before finally releasing his hand. Many players in this situation would be so relieved that it’s finally over that they subconsciously might think to themselves, “Hmm, I better think twice about making any moves against that guy in the future.”
Well, that’s just what the Devilfish wanted from him. He wanted to scare him. He wanted him to think that if he ever tried to bluff him, he would have to deal with a full five-minute stare-down. That’s more than the average guy wants to deal with at the table, so many of them will begin playing in a straightforward manner from that point on — thus making it even easier on our pro to control the table.
Don’t be paranoid of or obsessed with tells. That’s not where your focus should lie. I remember a few years ago something that I thought was rather cute. There were a few aspiring pros in a $10-$20 game at the Mirage one night. They looked fresh and ready to play. For several hours I watched them. Their eyes were constantly fixated on the player who was next to act. They gave each and every player the stare-down — on every street, whether they were in the hand or not! I thought it was quite funny, actually. They were so obsessed with trying to figure out what people’s tells were that they completely neglected what was actually going on in the hands — who bet, who raised, and so on. Instead of watching the action of the game and studying betting patterns, they spent all of their time trying to figure out if Grandma Betty actually had a nervous twitch, and whether or not her twitch revealed something about her holecards! They clearly had a lot of passion and energy for the game, but they were wasting all of that energy exercising the wrong muscles.
Having said all this, I should probably point out that what you say, or what you do with your eyes and hands, can be giveaways to the strength of your holding. Great players watch almost everything, and many do have an innate ability to read body language. You don’t ever want to dismiss tells from your poker repertoire, but you just might be better off putting less emphasis on their importance.
I have a simple rule when I’m being stared down: The tougher my opponent, the less I’ll do. If I believe I’m up against an average or weak player, I may send out some false tells and basically try to manipulate his decision in my favor. I may even make a comment, it just depends on what I think I need to do to manipulate his mind. A great player can usually read through that act, though, so you don’t want to give him anything. If you give him nothing and he still tells you he can “see through your soul,” don’t sweat it; I assure you it’s just another scare tactic.

72 Off Suit Theory by Top Poker



Any player who's been around the block at all has heard that the starting hand seven-two offsuit is the worst hand in NLH poker.
But with all the bad hands that you see in any session of Holdem, why does this one stand out as the ultimate pile of junk?
Well, the short answer is that it's a complete stinker.
We're gonna get just a bit more specific. Don't worry.

If you've read any of my starting hand analyses or strategy articles, you've likely caught onto the fact that I am a very mathematically-based player. You don't have to be exactly "math savvy" to understand why 72o is such a miserable starting hand. The fact of the matter is that 72o is the lowest valued hand that is separated by at least four other card ranks. That means it has almost no chance of making a straight (none if using both hole cards), and its high card value is remarkably low. I'm going to show you some race odds statistics to illustrate how the hand holds up against random and specific hands. Then we'll talk about how and when to play the hand. That won't take long; you're just not going to be inclined to put your chips at risk very often with this "peach" unless you are a masochist (or a sadist who wants to lay down the hammer on his opponents in grand fashion).
First, let's assume that we are at a full table with an average of three players seeing each flop. Even if your opponents have not looked at their hole cards and the cards can be considered completely random starting hands, you are still at a decided disadvantage. With three players seeing the flop, two random hands and yours, the odds of your 72o winning the showdown are only about 18% -- that's worse than 4 to 1 against. The two random hands are each going to win almost 40% of the time, with a small percentage of showdowns going to various ties. With three players involved you would like to be able to win at least 33.3% of the time just to roughly break even. So, you see, not only are you losing money in each hand on average, but the other two players are actually making out by your very presence in the hand.
Now, let's assume that your opponents have the very worst types of hands that might actually want to see a flop. Let's see what happens when one of your opponents holds an unimpressive Q9s and one has a pocket pair of twos. You've turned the Q9s into a consistent money maker, the pocket twos will win about their fair share, and you are a huge dog in the hand. The percentages are: 53% for the Q9s, 30% for 22, and 16% for 72o.
Even in a heads-up confrontation your 72o fares substantially worse than par. Against even a single random hand you are a 2 to 1 dog. If we define your opponent's hand a bit we can see how far behind you might be calling a raise against a single opponent. Let's put our opponent on 98s; that gives you a "whopping" 27% chance of coming out on top. If your opponent has J8o you're in roughly the same condition. If your opponent has a pair, even if it's lower than your seven, you are only going to win about 30%. If he holds a pair of eights or higher your miracle will come about 11% of the time, leaving you almost a 9 to 1 dog.
Another problem with playing 72o is its post-flop playability. Let's contrast the hand's playability with one of the more valuable starting hands to play, AK. If you pair the flop with AK you will have made top pair top kicker. You will have the highest pair, with the highest possible card to go along with it. That makes it fairly likely that you have the best hand, and it also makes it possible that an opponent has made top pair with a worse kicker. That's how players go broke in NLH. You both think you have the best hand, but one of you is wrong; we don't want to be that guy. Well, what happens when we hit the flop with 72o? You've either made lowest pair (necessarily) with your 2 and a pretty weak kicker, or you've made a very vulnerable pair of sevens with the worst possible kicker. Even when you are lucky enough to out flop an opponent with your seven deuce, you won't be able to proceed with any certainty in the hand, particularly if you encounter a lot of resistance. Therefore, even when your 72 is ahead in a hand it can be difficult to take a pot down.
Now, let's talk about some possible situations where you might be inclined to take a flop with 72o. Again, this should be a short discussion. You should only call with 72o when you are looking at absolutely irresistible pot odds. I am a huge advocate of always completing the big blind when you are in the small blind and the pot is unopened. And this is one time when I will definitely see a flop with 72o. If you are playing a tournament and the blinds are at 10 and 20, there will be 30 chips in the pot to begin with. If you are in the small blind you can play at a considerable discount. It will only cost you 10 chips to see a pot of 30 chips. You'll be getting 3 to 1 on your money with no reason at all to believe that you're anything like a 3 to 1 dog in the hand. Just pay and pray. Put the money in and hope to out flop or out play your opponent.
Winning with the Worst Poker Hand
I remember actually busting a player at a tournament with 72o in Vegas last December. The tournament had started with around 100 players and we were down to the final two tables of eight. The blinds where at 200-400 and I was sitting pretty with almost 9,000 chips. I was in the 400 chip big blind with a player with a very short stack in the small blind. The small blind raised all-in; after meeting the 400 chip big blind he only had another 700 left. I didn't even hesitate to call. The short stack held KTs, but was unable to win the showdown after I flopped a pair of sevens. That player called me an idiot, and I heard a lot of similar babble from a few of the other players at the table. "You called an all-in bet with the worst hand in Hold'em? Why on earth would you do that?!"
Well, they were all wrong. That's about all there is to that. I didn't argue, or explain myself. If there's one thing I'll never understand it's why anyone would want to help their opponents to become stronger in the middle of a game. The fact of the matter is that I was getting a great price on my money, I had the chips to risk, I had two live cards, and I had a chance to bust a player (and isn't that what it's really all about?). Hey, don't threaten me with a good time! Give me a chance to take out a player, better than 2 to 1 on my money, and a couple of live ones, and I'll play whatever you put in my hand.
So there are, of course, instances when the pot odds are so good that the cards in your hand are completely irrelevant. But, by and large, you just want to throw your 72o into the muck where it belongs. It's also noteworthy that 72o is a 2 to 1 favorite to beat 62o, and plays against 53o with an 8% edge. These are only heads-up situations though, and if you consider the implied odds of each set of hands and the post flop playability, the edge 72o has over some other crap hands doesn't exactly shine it up. But, the hand is not always behind - there are a few hands that 72o is in front of before the flop (don't play those either).
So, is 72o really the worst starting hand in Holdem? The short answer is YES, 72o really is the worst starting hand in hold'em. Just muck it. Until next time, Good "Luck!"

Practise Hand by Top Poker



I'd like to do something a little different in this series. I'm going to set up a situation and give you multiple choices as to how you might play out the hand. In this first practice scenario I'm going to place you in the middle of a large buy-in No Limit Hold'em tournament. Let's say you are in the middle stages of a $10,000 buy in event that you satellited your way into. The tournament started each player with 10,000 in tournament chips. The blinds started at 10-20 and now, late into day one, the blinds are up to 100-200. The field of 200 players has been reduced to 80 at ten tables of eight players. The average stack is around 25,000, but you have only 10,000 in chips.

The blinds are not so large that they are pushing the action too much, but they will be going to 200-400 in a few minutes. Players will start dropping out quickly. Let's set up the example poker hand.
Pre-Flop
You are in middle position (UTG+2), and you are facing an early position raise of 600 total to play. You just moved this table and have no information about the players at the table other than chip position. The player who made the raise is sitting comfortable at 20,000 chips and has no reason to make a move. In fact, all of the players at this table have around 20,000 chips, so no one should be in the mood to try anything "cute". There are no name players at your table, so you're just going to have to start playing "default poker". Just play solid until you get a feel for the table. The action is folded to you, and you wake up with two red queens. What's your move?
a) Smooth call the bet.
b) Re-raise to 1800.
c) Fold your hand.
d) Make a small raise to 1200 total.
e) Move all-in.
Well, an early position raise from a player with a comfortable chip position can really only be assumed to be a sign of strength. I think you could call, but then you might get action from the players yet to act in the hand. The big blind in particular would be getting a discount on his call. I think it's imperative to raise here. You want to play the pot heads up with your queens, and you have position on the raiser. If you had more information on the players at the table, you might attempt to represent aces with a small raise.
Honestly though, you don't want to encourage too much action with a hand like QQ, particularly against an early position raise. Players who play at large buy in events understand the importance of position and will normally only play premium hands from up front. You might be beaten already. I think it's safe to assume that your opponent has a strong hand, pocket 8's or higher, or a big ace. AJs is a stretch. AQs or AK would be more likely. You will generally see players limping in up front with aces. That's the standard play at high stakes poker games, and kings get played either way.
I think you need to make a solid raise here for two reasons: 1) you want to find out if you're up against a bigger pair, and you'll probably get your answer in the form of a re-raise if that's the case; or 2) you don't want to invite players to come into the pot when they have position on you. Just make it 1800 to go.
You raise to 1800, everyone folds to the original raiser, and he doubles the bet, re-raising another 1800. Now what?
1) Fold. The player is too likely to have KK or AA.
2) Re-raise again. You'll find out right now if you're ahead or not.
3) Smooth call. You're getting a very good price on your call and you have position on your opponent.
Well, that bet looks very suspicious. Doubling the bet is what players do when they want action; he's actually trying to build a bigger pot to play out of position. It's not unlikely that you're up against a bigger pair. If you had more information about the player you could think about raising again or throwing your hand away, based on how you've seen him play. The bottom line though is that there is too much money in the pot now and you have position, a strong starting hand, and no real information on the player. Call the raise for pot odds and position, but proceed with caution. You are getting a huge price on your call, 3 to 1, and you can't just let players think they can take you out of a pot with minimum raises or you're going to be stolen from in future hands. Players at this high of stakes generally miss nothing. Call, but proceed with extreme caution.
I think the player might have AA or KK, and if you knew he did you could fold. He could also be making a move with nothing, or he could have AK. Even if you knew that your opponent could only have AA, KK, or AK there is still a better chance of him having AK than AA and KK together. Mathematically it is easier to make AK than AA or KK combined. If you call against AA or KK, you've made a mistake. You are a huge dog in the hand and the pot odds and position don't quite compensate. If, however, you fold QQ to AK when you have position on the raiser and you are getting 3 to 1, you have made an epic mistake. I mean it's bad. There is one other thing to consider - if you do happen to out draw a big hand like aces, with this size stack there are huge implied odds. It's not unlikely that you can double up. Players have a very difficult time getting away from AA, even at a top level of play. Put the money in and pray.
The Flop
The flop comes: Ah Kh 2h.
Well, that's a strange flop with a lot to consider. This is one of those times when you are very happy to be acting last. The bad news is that if your opponent has AA or KK he just made a set. Even if your opponent has AK, he just out-flopped you. There is almost no chance you are leading at this point. The good news is that you just flopped a draw to the nuts. One more heart will give you the best possible flush. The other great news is that your opponent probably has a strong enough hand that he's going to want to get some value for his monster. It's very unlikely that he has already flopped a flush, but that won't likely enter into this problem too much. You only have 6400 in chips and the pot contains 7200. You just got into a situation where you could go broke, or you could double up. Your opponent checks to you. What's your move?
a) Move all-in. You're practically stuck to this pot anyway, and a semi bluff has two ways to win. Your opponent could fold his hand, or you could catch a heart and win.
b) Bet your hand for value. You still have a pair of queens and a draw to the nuts.
c) Check behind your opponent. He might be looking for a check-raise.
d) Make a bet of about the size of the pot to make it look like you've made a flush and are protecting your hand.
Ok, you should be pretty sure that your opponent is slow playing a monster hand. If he'd somehow managed to miss that flop he would have probably made a continuation bet. That's what good players do. If they bet before the flop they bet on the flop, most of the time. I think your opponent has a true monster of a hand, and he's not giving you credit for a flush draw. He might have put you on AK, making it impossible for you to be drawing. Maybe he has a set and hopes that you'll move in with your two pair. There is no doubt at all as to how you should play this hand. Just check behind him and take the free card that he, erroneously, gave you. It's time to capitalize on his huge mistake. Wow, what a great result for you! You check behind him.
Let's take a moment to think about what that looks like to your opponent. He knows you showed a lot of strength before the flop and now you checked that flop after him. If he's extremely savvy he might have you on exactly QQ with a draw to the nuts. You should always think about these things. What do I think my opponent has? What do I think he thinks I have? What do I think he thinks I think he has? That might sound confusing, and it may be a bit difficult for an intermediate player, but I promise you that these are the questions all of the top poker players have in their heads every street of every hand.
The Turn
Fourth Street: Qs, the board now reads Ah Kh 2h Qs.
The bad news is that you missed your draw, the good news is that you just took the lead against AK. You are, however, still way behind AA and KK. This is the kind of poker hand that comes up once in a hundred sessions. To me, it's what makes all the boring hands worth playing through. Your heart is pumping, your gears are turning, and you are in murky, murky water. Let's hope for another free card, but let's not hold our breath.
Your opponent starts counting out firing chips. So much for the free card. He asks you for a count, you tell him "6400 chips". The pot contains 7,200. He fires out 2,000 chips into the pot. Now it's time to do some math, but first, let's consider what that bet likely means. It could be a probe bet - maybe he has aces up and wants to find out where he's at.
It could also be a value bet - maybe he's sure that you have QQQ and he wants to get paid. I think the probe bet theory is a bit of a stretch. If you call his 2,000 and move-in on him, it will only be another 4,400 chips into a monster pot. He'd have to call that with almost any reasonable hand just based on pot odds. The most logical guess here is that he has a set of aces or kings. Now what? What's your play?
a) Fold the hand. You're beaten.
b) Call the bet. You've got the right pot odds.
c) Move all-in. You're stuck to it anyway.
Let's do the math now. Even if you are against a bigger set you still have a lot of outs. Any of the nine unseen hearts will make you the nut flush and the case queen gives you quads. That's ten outs, you are over 20% here, usually you can count your outs, multiply them by two and add one to see what your odds are of hitting your hand. On the river it's actually a bit better than that. You are right around 23% to make your hand. The pot is offering you a price of almost 4 to 1. That's just about what you need even if you are behind.
There's also a little bit of implied odds to consider. Your last 4,400 would probably be easy to get in if you make your hand. The big problem is that you will have a pretty hard time throwing away your set if you miss the draw. This is complicated. If you knew you were one of the best players at the table you might just throw away your hand and look for a better spot, at this high of stakes you just don't know that, this might be your best chance of doubling up and becoming a force at the table. If you add the 4,400 you have left to the size of the pot, you are in slight overlay. I say call and pray. This is poker, you are gambling, you just have to make sure you make profitable decisions and look to win in the long run. If the tournament was nearing the end you might just throw your hand away and try to survive into the money. With so many players left in the field though, you should play it roughly as though it were a cash game. You call.
The River
Fifth Street: Qc, for a board of Ah Kh 2h Qs Qc.
Jackpot! Your opponent has likely put you on a flush draw at this point. He checks to you, probably trying to induce a bluff that he intends to pick off. There's no reason for multiple choice here - you got really, really lucky. Your play?
a) All-in
Your opponent folds his hand. What on earth could that mean? I think we've just exposed our opponent as one who likes to make fancy plays. He must have had nothing from the beginning and was just "making a move", or he is really, really good and was able to get away from a huge hand when you caught your quads. Maybe he had the AK, and he was actually able to fold his hand when you made yours. Maybe he had AJ and just hoped you'd come in with a lesser hand.
You just won a huge pot, and you didn't have to reveal your hand. You also got a great deal of information about the player you were up against. File it away and look for more evidence. You should only need to see him show down one or two more hands to have a fix on his playing style. My best guess is that he was making a move - he was representing aces and tried to take you off your hand. But you don't know that for sure. You must keep all of this information in your head. By playing a few more poker hands against him you should have him totally wired. Now, roll all those chips into a victory and split your money with me, the man who put you in the tournament and helped you win this big pot! Until next time, Good "luck!"

Playing Jack Ten suited By Top Poker



Jack-Ten suited is a drawing hand, but it is a very valuable drawing poker hand under the right conditions. Although JTs is only a small favorite against two random cards and is actually a small dog to some bad hands like Q7, it really does have potential to be profitable in the hands of a skilled player. Beginners like to take flops with speculative hands like suited connectors, and most players just lack the skill level required to effectively play them. If you are new to No Limit Hold'em, my advice to you is to just leave these hands alone. If you have a pretty good grip on pot odds and post-flop play, suited connectors can be lucrative poker hands, and I think JTs is the best of them.

Again, I should note that the skill level required to effectively wield JTs is pretty high. If you are uncomfortable playing flops or you really don't know how to count outs and calculate pot odds, you might just pass on playing JTs. At some point in your poker career you will want to start experimenting with speculative hands, and this one is probably the one to start with. In this article I will try to arm you with enough information to start opening up your game with speculative hands.
Suited Connectors & Speculative Hands
I've already stated that I think JTs is the most valuable of the suited connectors. Let me explain what I mean. OK, it's pretty easy to understand why JTs is better than 98s - both cards are higher in value. But why would JTs be a better hand to speculate with than QJs? Comparing QJs to JTs could be an article of its own, so let me just give you the most important reasons that JTs is usually better to play than QJs.
When you play speculative hands like JTs or QJs, you're really hoping to flop huge hands or huge draws. There will be a certain number of times, though, that you actually flop a pair or even two pair. When you flop a pair, even top pair with QJs, you have to be very careful not to lose all your chips. The fact is that most players play big cards, so when you flop the top pair with QJ, particularly if it's the Q, you are playing top pair with a relatively weak kicker. When you raise on the button with QJs and are called by the player in the small blind and the player who limped in is early position, it is very possible that either or both of them are holding a hand that has you dominated: AQ, KQ, AJ, or KJ, and that puts you in a very dangerous situation. When you flop two pair with QJs, say with a flop of 9 J Q or A Q J, chances are that you are not the only player excited about that flop. There could be a player sitting on a set or a straight or a draw to a monster.
When you flop top pair with JTs it is less likely that you are dominated, especially when you hit the ten for top pair. Players play queens more often than jacks and jacks more than tens. The other reason that I favor JTs over QJs is that there are more cards above the jack than the queen, which makes it easier to hit a straight. When playing JTs you are really hoping to flop a straight or a flush or you are hoping to flop a draw to one of those hands. But when you hit the flop a bit more directly by pairing one or both of your cards, you still have made a pretty good hand that should be fairly simple to play.
When to Play JTs and Suited Connectors
Remember, we're not going to play every time we have JTs in our hand. I think most players play suited connectors incorrectly in that they play them from any position and play regardless of the pre-flop action. The most important factors I look at before deciding whether or not to enter a pot with JTs are (1) the size of the blinds relative to the stacks at the table and (2) my position relative to the dealer. If I'm playing in a cash game with blinds of say one and two dollars and all the players have around two hundred dollars in play, I will usually be willing to call a small raise if I'm on the dealer button or the cut-off seat (one from the dealer) holding JTs. I will limp in with the hand only from middle or late position. I'd play the hand similarly in the early stages of a tournament with, say, 1000 in tournament chips and blinds of maybe 10- 20. In the middle stages of 1000 chip tournaments, when the blinds are around the 50-100 stage, I will rarely play the hand at all. The only exceptions would be when I can limp in on the button or complete the blind from the small blind. Of course I will also open with JTs from late position if the players in the blinds are fairly tight, just trying to steal the blinds. I won't attempt to steal with any two cards, I need something that has a little potential after the flop, and JTs definitely qualifies.
Generally speaking, all suited connectors play best in multi-way pots, especially with passive players. You want to play JTs mostly against meek players because you will often get the right odds to chase your draws when playing against them. I've played at tables where I even started playing hands like JTs from early position, but that is a rarity. The reason is that I noticed no one was ever raising before the flop, and most pots were being contested by four or more players. These particular players would always give me the right odds to draw to my big hands, and often gave me free cards to chase flushes and straights. The opposite is also sometimes true. You may find yourself at a very aggressive table. When playing against savvy and aggressive players you have to be very picky about when you play JTs. Even when you are lucky enough to flop a draw to a straight or a flush with your hand, savvy players will be aware of the potential draw and you will rarely be given the correct odds to draw to it. That's why I will usually only play JTs from late position after a string of calls when I feel like my opponents are fairly strong players.
You should also know that JTs goes down in value during the late stages of tournament play when the blinds are getting stiff. JTs is just not a very good hand without strong implied odds, and implied odds require small blinds and large stacks. To illustrate that point I'd like to end our analysis of JTs with a list of percentages. These numbers will show you what your chances of winning a showdown are against various starting hands. You should rarely call raises at the final stages of a tournament with JTs, but sometimes pot odds will compel you to call even all-in bets with it. My favorite example is when you are in the big blind and everyone folds to the short stack in the small blind who then moves all-in. Very often you will have the odds to make the call even if you're pretty sure you are trailing in the hand.
Chances of JTs Winning Against Starting Hands
1) JTs vs. AK: 40% (you're only a 3 to 2 dog.)
2) JTs vs. AA: 20% (you're a 4 to 1 dog.)
3) JTs vs. A2s: 46% (almost a coin flip.)
4) JTs vs. 66: 51% (you're actually a small favorite against small pairs.)
5) JTs vs. two random cards: 56% (the fact that you're not a big favorite against two random cards should illustrate why JTs is not a strong hand in late stages of tournament play.)
6) JTs vs. Q7: 48% (remember that even pure bluffs with bad hands are ahead of you when they contain a queen, king, or an ace.)
7) JTs vs. 98s: 63% (you're better than a 3 to 2 favorite.)
Hopefully you're starting to understand JTs on a fundamental level. These concepts and numbers change only slightly when you play other suited connecting cards like 98s. These speculative hands play best in late position, with small blinds and large stacks. Ideally you want to play them in multi-player pots. You would also prefer to play hands like JTs against passive players who are often willing to let you draw cheap or even free and who are kind enough to pay you off when you make your hand. Once you become comfortable reading players, counting outs and figuring pot odds, suited connectors can be lucrative hands to play in good position. In my opinion JTs is the best of the suited connectors, if not the best all-around speculative hand. I've made a great deal of money playing JTs, and with the information you've just read and all of the information available for you in the strategy section of toppoker.org, you should be well on your way to making big scores yourself. Until next time… Good "luck!"

Playing Pocket Three's by Top Poker



In this article I would like to "dissect" pocket threes as a starting poker hand. Generally speaking, neophyte NLH players make a lot of mistakes with the way they play certain hands. Usually new players misplay most starting poker hands and slowly start to become proficient. My observation of players' tendencies with pocket threes has been rather different. Somewhat counter-intuitively, it seems to me that beginners as a whole play 33 ("crabs") better than players who are actually starting to become proficient NLH players. It seems that, as players start to get some felt time under their belts, their play of pocket crabs gets worse instead of better. I'm going to provide some insight that should help you to avoid that struggle.

Players new to the game of No Limit Holdem usually start out loose and passive. They see too many flops and they call more than they raise. The natural progression of a NLH player moves him or her towards tight and aggressive play. Through experience, study, or a combination of both, players eventually realize that they should be playing only the best starting hands and they should raise instead of call when they enter a pot. Most catch on to, or read about, the "gap concept". The gap concept states, basically, that it takes a better hand to call a raise with than to initiate one. Players at all levels of experience will often limp into pots with 33 to and see if they can hit a set, and that's not a bad idea. Most players, with a bit of experience, become very reluctant to call raises with pocket treys. In fact though, calling a raise with pocket threes is very often the optimal play. When you consider that pocket threes are almost never a significant favorite to win a showdown, it's not difficult to understand why players quit calling raises with 3's in the relatively early stages of their poker development.
When you start with pocket threes you are only about a 3% favorite against two random cards. Your crabs are a huge dog to all pocket pairs other than twos, and they are only a small favorite against two unpaired over cards. Unremarkable hands like T4o pose just about as much threat as premium high card hands like AKs, AQs, AK, and AQ. Despite being a small favorite against two high cards, you will generally find it difficult to win a pot with 33 if you don't improve to three of a kind. It's just not easy to feel comfortable in a hand when every card ranked four or higher is a "scare card". The only hands that you will beat with any real consistency in a showdown are hands that contain a three and another card, hands that contain a 2 and another card, and pocket two's. It's just not often that an opponent raises before the flop with hands as suboptimal as 22 or 3X. Generally speaking then, you are going to either be a very small favorite or a 4 to 1 dog to any hand that puts in a raise against you. So, how much wisdom could there be in calling a raise when the best case scenario is that you are in a "coin flip?" Well that's just one of the things we're going to examine in my starting hand analysis of 33.
Chances of 33 Winning Against Starting Hands
I'm going to show you your approximate win percentages against various two-card starting hands. Becoming familiar with these numbers should be helpful when you are playing pocket threes in cash games and at various stages of a tournament, especially when the blinds start to get hefty at the final stages of a tournament. I'm going to provide a list of starting hands that will cover a lot of ground. We'll look at some premium starting hands, some garbage hands, some speculative hands, and some pretty random hands so you can see how your threes match up against: raising hands, limping hands, bluffs, and random blind hands. I'll list the hand that your threes are, hypothetically, up against and then show your chances of beating the hand if both players see all five cards.
1) AK: 53%
2) JTs: 47%
3) KQ: 51%
4) Q7o: 53%
5) 45: 50%
6) 22: 78%
7) A2s: 64%
8) T2: 67%
9) J4s: 51%
10) 44, 55, 66, 77, 88, all the way to AA: 17%
When to Play Pocket Threes
The idea you should grasp from this is that you are in bad shape against a lot of hands, flipping a coin against most hands, and you are a real favorite only against a very few hands. It would be easy to look at numbers like these and just decide you're never going to play threes again. We're going to be a bit more creative than that though. I advocate playing the hand often when the blinds are small in relation to the sizes of the stacks in play. Towards the late/middle stages of a poker tournament, when the big blind starts to approach 5-8% of the average stack size, the strength of crabs starts to ebb. The intriguing thing about small pocket pairs like threes is that they actually become reasonably playable again once the blinds get even bigger.
There are two major attributes that pocket crabs have going for them in the early stages of a tournament. The first is implied value (there is a reasonable chance of flopping a (well concealed) monster and taking a player's entire stack. The second is its post-flop playability - the hand virtually plays itself after the flop. You'll either hit a set and attempt to get as much money into the pot as possible, or you will go away. It's usually that simple. There's very little chance of losing a big pot with pocket threes. Either you'll hit your set and go into "extraction mode" or you'll hit nothing and go into check-and-fold mode.
During cash games or the early rounds of a tournament, you should play pocket threes like any other speculative hand. You'll want to play them from late position when you can see a relatively cheap flop. The odds of flopping a set or better when you start with pocket threes are a little better than 7.5 to 1 against. That means you will hit at least three of a kind a tiny bit less than one time in eight. So, as long as you can gain more than seven times your investment when you do hit, it's at least a break even play. My rule of thumb when playing cash games is that I will play my crabs from late position only and will limp in or call a raise of no more than about 7% of my stack, and the player who made the raise has to have at least 15 times more than the size of the bet left in his stack. It doesn't do you any good to take long shot gambles like 7 to 1 if your opponent doesn't have enough money to make it worth your while when you actually do get there.
In freeze-out tournament play (tournaments with no re-buys), I tighten up my play even more with pocket threes, although I will still call raises with them in the first couple blind rounds. In freeze-outs I like to make sure I don't call off more than 5% of my stack, and I would still like my opponent to have at least 15 times the amount that I'm calling to play. The reason I play tighter with threes in tournaments is three-fold. First due to the pay out structures rewarding survival, you don't want to push small edges in a tournament. The second reason is that you cannot just buy back in when you're low on chips, which means you want to try to reduce the volatility (the swings) in the game. Finally, I find that it's easier to bust players at cash games than it is in freeze-out tournaments. Players are often risky in cash games, and downright reckless in re-buy events, but they tend to keep a tighter grip on there chips when they are not able to just reach into their wallets to buy more.
Oddly, when blinds become huge in relation to stack sizes, especially short handed or heads-up, pocket threes become playable hands again. They are actually a fine hand to move-in with under the right conditions. That means very large blinds with very few players to act after you, and particularly when you are on the short stack. You should start playing any pocket pair especially hard in large blind/small stack, short-handed play. When the blinds, and or antes, would add a large percentage to the size of your stack, pocket threes are just fine for moving in with on a steal. You're hoping that no one calls you, but even when you are called you will be on the better end of a "coin flip" about 15 times out of 16 (the odds of holding a pair in a two-card starting hand are 15 to 1 against). If you do get called and end up in a "coin flip" or "race" situation, you'll be getting better than 1 to 1 from the pot (with blinds and antes) and you'll be a bit better than 1 to 1 in the hand. That's not a bad situation to be in. The combination of good hand odds and good pot odds makes it somewhat profitable when you factor in the fold equity (the chance that your opponent may just let you take the blinds uncontested); you have a winning play. Remember that I'm advocating raising all-in with crabs in these situations and not calling all-in. Those are two very different concepts. When you call all-in you lose your fold equity, and that fold equity is crucial in making the play an overall money winner.
The first idea that I want to stress about pocket threes, to those of you who are starting to see that playing tight and aggressive are the keys to winning in No Limit Hold'em, is that it's okay to call sometimes. You can call a raise with threes and try to hit a great flop and bust somebody. You don't always have to raise or fold, as some of the literature in print suggests. While you should definitely raise more than you call and fold more than you raise, there are certain times when calling is the most advisable course of action. In the early rounds of a tournament or in a cash game, the last thing I think you should do with crabs is to re-raise and give your opponent a chance to price you out of the hand. The other concept I want you to grasp is that small pocket pairs like threes actually play well in the beginning stages of a tournament and at the end but do not play as well in the middle stages. Until next time, Good "Luck!"

Playing Pocket Jacks by Top Poker



I think if you took a poll among the best NLH players in the world and asked them what the most difficult starting hand to play was, you would find pocket jacks at the top of the list. The hand is not just difficult to play before the flop; it's actually very tough to play after the flop as well. There are three hands that have it pretty well crushed before the flop: AA, KK, and QQ. There are three others that essentially have you in a coin flip or race situation: AK, AQ, and KQ. That's a lot of hands to be afraid of. And if that's not bad enough, any player with an ace, king, or queen in his starting hand still has a pretty significant chance of drawing out, something like 30% with even an abysmal Q2o.

These considerations all make playing JJ before the flop a bit tricky, but the water gets really murky after the flop. The biggest single problem with JJ is that the flop will produce at least one over card about half of the time. The problem is actually compounded when you take into consideration the sort of action that is likely before the flop. Because you raise before the flop with JJ (and you do, right?) any over card that hits on the flop will be a scare card. To put it in simple terms, jacks are a hand that must be played cautiously before and after the flop.
I think I've seen more players eliminated from tournaments and busted at the cash tables holding JJ than any other hand. Beginners and even some, otherwise, strong players have a tendency to over value the hand. Your main concern when holding JJ is the possibility that a player has a bigger pair. When your opponent starts with a pair of aces, kings, or queens, you are about a 4 to 1 dog in the hand. When your opponent has a larger pair than your jacks, you are drawing pretty slim to win the pot. Your biggest fear though, when you run your JJ into a larger pair, is that the flop will come off with all small cards. When you have an over pair to the board and you are up against a larger over pair, it is very difficult to escape "skin intact". When the flop brings high cards you will have to play even more cautiously. If this is starting to sound like a catch 22, you're probably starting to understand why pocket jacks are such a difficult hand to play. Making big gains with pocket jacks will require you to have an excellent read on the other player(s) you are up against. Understanding your opponent(s') style, physical tells, and betting patterns is critical when playing JJ.
Now that I've presented the starting hand in such a bleak manner, let's just remember that when we do "wake up" with a couple of jacks, we surely wouldn't throw them back. Most experts rate pocket jacks as a tier two (or category B) starting hand. The hand is better than a 3 to 1 favorite against a random hand. Pocket jacks should net you a good profit per hand in the long run, as long as you learn to play them properly. The reason JJ costs so many players so much money is not due to a lack of power in the hand. Statistically it's a great hand. The problem is that the hand is largely overrated and just misplayed in general.
There is no real reason, mathematically, that pocket jacks should have huge negative implied odds attached to them. The truth is, however, that most players tend to win small pots and lose large pots with JJ. Pocket jacks are not the pre-flop nuts and should not be played as though they are. I think that's were so many players get themselves into so much trouble playing jacks, they seem to play them like they are aces, and they are not. Players tend to limp when they should open, call when they should re-raise, raise when they should call, and call when they should fold. I'm going to share some pretty simple guidelines for playing pocket jacks in tournaments and in cash games. I think the first concept I want to drive into your mind is this; during a cash game or in the early stages of a tournament try to avoid playing large pots with pocket jacks unless you make a set.
One thing that I've noticed, as strange as it may sound, is that I see the same players who play the hand too hard also turning around in the next orbit and play them too soft. Pocket Jacks tend to play best in either multi-player pots, when four or more players see the flop, or heads up against one other player. Pocket pairs always have the potential to flop sets and, generally speaking, if you can flop a set you can bust someone. That "set flopping potential" is what makes them play good in pots with four or more players. The hand also plays well against one opponent because most flops miss most hands. So as long as you only have one player in against you, it's often possible to win the hand against one player simply by betting on the flop.
I'm going to explain the strategy I generally use when playing JJ before the flop. Keep in mind that there are a number of variables that could change the way I'd play any hand. For the sake of simplicity, let's assume that we are playing a cash game, $1-$2 NLH at a table of eight, and every player has $200. This situation would be almost identical to playing the first blind round of a NLH tournament. With regard to my pre-flop strategy with Jacks, we'll also assume that we have no knowledge of the playing styles of anyone involved - that means we'll assume they know what they're doing until we learn otherwise.
Pocket Jacks in Early Position
When you are in early position, first or second to act after the blinds I think you should open the pot for 3 times the big blind. Without any knowledge about the other players, you will have to decide whether to play against a re-raise based on the position the re-raise came from and the amount of the raise. If you raise from first position and the player to act directly after you (still an early position player) puts in a substantial re-raise, I think you should concede the hand. You raised from under the gun, and he re-raised with all those players yet to act. I think the best case scenario is that he has AK and you are flipping a coin. It's actually just as likely that you're up against a huge pair of aces, kings, or queens. When being even-money to win a hand is the best case scenario, you can pass. If you encounter this situation and the player who made the re-raise is known to be very aggressive, you can come back over the top of him, but folding should be your default option.
If you raise in early position and are re-raised by a player in late position, you can call him down a long as no other player has called the re-raise. I still favor coming over the top of the re-raise if making a re-raise would not commit too much of your stack to the hand. If you don't have enough chips to get away from it if you raise and are moved-in on, I think you should just call and see what happens on the flop. I like to play mostly raise or fold poker pre-flop with jacks, especially when playing out of position. Jacks are difficult to play after the flop you need to find out where you are in the hand, and you don't learn very much by calling.
The key to playing jacks before the flop is to be the one betting and not the one calling. Your raises and re-raises serve to protect your hand against speculative hands like suited aces and KQ. They also help you to gain much need information that will help you to make better decisions after the flop. You want to put enough pressure on to get rid of KQ and AQ, because those hands are only very small dogs to you. Your raises and re-raises will also give you the best chance of uncovering bigger pairs before the flop so you can avoid losing your entire stack.
Pocket Jacks in Middle Position
When you hold JJ in middle position, you should open for 3 times the big blind if no one else has entered the pot. As a pretty general rule of thumb, you should add one big blind to your raise for every player who has tried to limp in before you. If someone has opened the pot in front of you, you should re-raise with JJ. If you get called you'll have to play a flop, if someone puts in the third raise, you're done with the hand.
Pocket Jacks in Late Position
In late position I like to play jacks a bit differently. If no one has opened the pot I will still make my standard raise (3 bb's + 1 per limper). But now, if someone has opened the pot in front of me, I'm more willing to just call it down. That's because having to act last in all betting rounds is a huge advantage. This is especially true when playing a tricky hand like jacks. If my opponent opened with an inferior hand like 99 I don't want to blow him out, not when I have position on him, I also don't mind flopping against AK or AQ when I am in position. The main problem that comes from playing jacks is that it is often hard to know where you are at in the hand. A lot of that problem is compensated for when you have position on the other player or players in the hand.
Pocket Jacks After the Flop
There is no magic formula that I know of that will help you to play jacks after the flop, but I can give you some tips. The strongest thing about pocket jacks is that they rate to be the best hand before the flop, and are still very likely to be the best hand after the flop against one opponent. Hands like AK and KQ are only 50% to beat you if they get to see all five cards. The weakness of JJ is that you are often unclear about where you are in the hand. Both of these are reasons to raise and re-raise on the flop. You should play the hand very aggressively on the flop as long as one or no over cards are produced. Raising and re-raising will help you to establish whether or not you're beat, and it will charge your opponents for the privilege of drawing against your made hand if they have not yet improved.
Hopefully you can isolate down to one opponent before the flop. As long as that's true I think you should proceed as though you have the best hand as long as one or no over cards hit the board. For instance, suppose you raised before the flop and were called by only one player. The flop comes A34 rainbow. You have to act first; I think you should lead out. Bet about 1/3 the pot. That's the bet size I use for probe or informational bets, and it's also the bet size I use when I have a huge hand and want to extract maximum value. If you are re-raised you can lay it down. If your bet is called I think you can try to check the hand down from that point. If no over cards hit on the turn or river and your opponent checked the turn, go ahead and value bet your hand, again about 1/3.
When you're playing against a single opponent and you have position on them, the hand is much easier to play. Let's suppose your opponent raised from early position and you just called from the button. The flop comes A26 rainbow. If your opponent bets at the flop, I think you should go ahead and raise him. If he calls, you will put no more money into the pot unless you happen to improve your hand. If he checks the flop to you, you should bet. If the flop has more than one card higher than your Jacks, you should just generally be ready to check it down or concede the hand. These are just rules of thumb. I would play the hand differently from one opponent to the next based on what I know about that player and any physical tells I may have picked up on. The key to playing JJ after the flop is understanding your opponent(s). Until next time, Good "Luck!"